Immerse yourself in JHOL's “playful” Indian cuisine: 5 things to know
Chef Hari Nayak's successful elevation of coastal Indian delicacies is taking Bangkok by storm
There's a vibrant Indian food scene in Bangkok, thanks in large part to innovative and creative restaurateurs from India who make it their mission to spread their country's rich culinary culture. Chef Hari Nayak is one of these entrepreneurs. Born and raised in a small coastal town called Udupi in southern India, he is celebrating the region that exposed him to amazing cuisine by founding a premier Indian restaurant in the Thai capital. After studying at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Chef Hari began his stellar career at the Daniel, a three-Michelin-star restaurant, under top chef Daniel Boulud in the Big Apple.
The author of seven cookbooks, including the best-seller “Modern Indian Cooking”, Chef Hari has expanded his influence and the representation of Indian fare in the Thai food scene through his restaurant JHOL, which is listed in Michelin Guide's Bangkok edition and is considered by many as one of the best restaurants in Bangkok, serving Indian food.
“I have fond memories of simple home-cooked meals to elaborate feasts that I enjoyed eating growing up in Udupi. I always knew that someday I will create a restaurant which serves regional dishes that are etched in my memory and dear to my heart. Thailand is the place I chose to showcase this cuisine because of the many cultural, geographical and culinary similarities between southern Thailand and southern India."
–Chef Hari Nayak
Fans of Indian cuisine in Thailand and all over the world will love everything about JHOL. Here are five things you need to know:
1. It is not your typical Indian restaurant
The word "jhol" is a colloquialism in Mumbai that means "mischief”. This nugget of information tells us that the restaurant “JHOL” is not a typical Indian place. It is playful and, therefore, different. If all the Indian food you're familiar with are biryanis and curried dishes (which are excellent, by the way), then, at JHOL, diners are in for quite a treat. It serves coastal Indian cooking from the regions around Konkan and Malabar on the West coast and Chettinad, Pondicherry, and the Bay of Bengal on the east coast of India. This fresh concept by Chef Hari has achieved what it set out to do – present Indian cuisine as diverse and even more exciting.
JHOL's menu is inspired by the regional delicacies of India's coasts and complemented by the best of seasonal Thai produce. The dishes are usually for sharing, with a unique mix of the traditional and modern. Chef Hari and JHOL's executive chef Sanchit Sahu bring together southern Indian flavors and modern cooking techniques that even die-hard fans of Indian food have never experienced before.
Chef Hari considers the Masala Maska Bun as one of JHOL's signature dishes. It is a modern version of the classic Pau Bhaji from Mumbai – a slider bun stuffed with mashed vegetables and topped with a dollop of melted butter. He says the dish is representative of the restaurant's philosophy that traditional Indian coastal cuisine can be served in a modern way. You can find JHOL's innovative menu here.
2. It serves drinks with Thai and Indian flavors
A lot of thought also went into the drinks menu. All signature concoctions are made to complement JHOL's very original cuisine and put an end to the perception that Indian food is not meant to be paired with cocktails, wines, and other alcoholic beverages, as well as mocktails for teetotalers. Staying true to its playful concept, JHOL's drinks list is modern and experimental, and created through partnerships with local distilleries, breweries, and vineyards. Guests are encouraged to get out of their comfort zone and try the “mischievous” cocktail lineup, with bartenders including unlikely local ingredients to make head-spinning gems like Raabta with gin and kaffir lime, The Shaman with Issan rum, coconut, and orange marmalade and the stranger things which is made with a jackfruit shrub and chocolate bitters.
Check out the entire drinks menu here.
3. There's something for every palate, even veg ones
JHOL's inclusive menu has clearly labeled sections for veg mains and small bites, making it easy for vegetarian and vegan patrons to order. Among the star veg main dishes is the Roasted Pumpkin Menasakai – a delicious pumpkin curry with Konkan-style red chili sauce served with a side of ghee rice. The fragrant grain is the perfect complement to the stronger flavors of the curry. Those who want to experience the Culinary Journey – a set menu that consists of four small plates, one main dish, and one dessert – will be treated to the hard-to-forget starter avocado mousse and jicama-filled Pani Puri with passion fruit sauce on the side. It is served in both veg and non-veg sets.
4. Interiors are a happy mix of relaxed intimacy and elegance
The restaurant’s exteriors and interiors give off a warm and unassuming vibe with an eclectic mix of pristine white walls and colorful tiled floors. There’s an easy and relaxed atmosphere, but also unmistakable elegance. Its aesthetics blend the trendy and edgy with the contemporary and family-friendly, which is quite an achievement. The brasserie type of setting is ideal for guests who come in groups or those who are there for a relaxing, low-key dinner for two – or one, even. Despite its modern energy, it is every inch a celebration of traditional India as evidenced by the prominence of a giant ancient map of the country and the regal Indian portraits in sepia that grace its walls. JHOL offers indoor and outdoor seating.
5. It is right where the action is
Located at the heart of Asok in Sukhumvit Soi 18, JHOL is easily accessible by BTS Skytrain (Asok Station) or car. Sukhumvit is Bangkok's most popular tourist district where trendy bars and eateries are popular with expatriates and the young set. Asok, in particular, is one of Bangkok's main hubs and the site of some of the city’s best hotels and restaurants. It can get pricey here, but the visit is worth every Baht. For travelers who want to be at the center of the action and love to both shop to their hearts' content and enjoy Bangkok's nightlife and restaurant scene, Asok is the place to be.
From the creative concept, sumptuous well-thought-out menu that is also a cultural homage, excellent service, and prime location, Chef Hari has definitely shown us that there's more to discover about Incredible India.
JHOL
Address:7/2 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey Bangkok 10110 Thailand
Website: jholrestaurant.com
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