Chef Ryuki Kawasaki: Bringing Japan's four seasons to the world of Michelin-starred French cuisine
The French-trained Japanese chef helms Mezzaluna, a two-star Michelin restaurant at lebua Hotels and Resorts in Bangkok, Thailand
Chef Kawasaki’s culinary journey into French cuisine started when he first watched French chefs on TV. “I watched the show Iron Chef [when I was younger]. The French chefs had tall hats and looked nice. I decided to be a chef because of that,” he told Michelin Asia Guide a few years ago.
Now with more than 20 years of cooking and solid culinary experience in Parisian and London kitchens, including those in Tokyo, Chef Kawasaki has become a highly-regarded Japanese chef who is a master of classic French cuisine. His signature style: fusing Japan's best produce and umami flavors in the context of French cuisine and tradition. This magical combination helped him steer Mezzaluna to the stratosphere, earning the restaurant two stars since he took the helm of the kitchen in 2015.
“French cuisine is my forte from the [very] beginning, and I have no experience in Japanese cuisine professionally. I have cooked in Japan, France, London, and Las Vegas, but when I came to Bangkok, I established my own cuisine. Since I’m Japanese I used both my knowledge of Japanese [flavors] and French to find a perfect combination and create my own style of cooking," he tells TableCheck.
"French cuisine is my forte."
Mezzaluna and its two Michelin stars
Nestled on the 65th floor of The State Tower of lebua Hotels and Resorts, Last August, Mezzaluna reopened after more than two months of refurbishment. Known for its breathtaking river panorama and unique crescent-shaped dining room, Mezzaluna is considered an epicurean destination by many and one of the top restaurants in Bangkok. According to Chef Kawasaki, Mezzaluna's reopening hasn't changed their goal of continuing the culinary tradition of cooking French dishes and combining them with the best Japanese products and flavors.
“The style of cooking is still the same; it’s a French cuisine using seasonal ingredients from Japan. We are now more focused on elevating the quality of food and enhancing the standard of service with the renovation, so you can expect a better experience than before,” he says.
At Mezzaluna, Chef Kawasaki has found the perfect platform and the perfect city in Bangkok to display his love for the culinary arts.
“Mezzaluna is a place that allowed me to express myself more as a chef and share my vision with the restaurant. It is hard to find a company with an owner and the CEO, Deepak Ohri who entrusts and supports us with the restaurant. We also have a strong team that supports me to carry it out,” says the Japanese chef who is more than appreciative about the free creative rein he’s been allowed to do at Mezzaluna.
As a chef who is committed to culinary innovations at Mezzaluna, it comes as no surprise that the restaurant has amassed two Michelin stars. It first received its two stars in 2017 and has held on to it for more than seven years. This remarkable achievement stands as a testament to their relentless pursuit of excellence in the world of gastronomy.
“Having experienced working in Michelin restaurants for a long time, we are confident in the quality that we are offering at Mezzaluna. I was blessed that I was able to receive two stars. Above all, I was happy that I was able to give back to the company and staff that trusted and supported me,” says the Japanese Chef de Cuisine.
“Receiving the Michelin Award helped us to get recognized, and more customers and visitors from overseas have come to dine and experience with us," as he describes the fulfillment of a chef whose pursuit of innovation and creativity has borne fruit.
“Mezzaluna is a place that allowed me to express myself more as a chef."
Crafting culinary memories: The flavors of Japan with a French twist
Behind all that classic French cuisine training, is a chef who still takes inspiration from his childhood upbringing. Part of his French dishes at Mezzulina are composed of ingredients from his native hometown, Niigata, a city in the north of Japan.
“I grew up near the sea, so fish and seafood were familiar ingredients, so I use them more often. Compared to meat, fish and seafood are [some] of the attractions that change with the seasons, just like vegetables,” he explains. Chef Kawasaki's culinary philosophy is to combine the four seasons of Japan in his French cooking as a way to provide the best dining experience. “[Having] a sense of the season is very important when creating memories," he says.
“I like using ingredients from Niigata because I know the area well, so I can use it with confidence. Our signature dish, Murakami Wagyu beef, is a valuable cow with a small production volume, and we want as many people as possible to know its excellent quality,” he says. “We change the preparation, garnish, sauce, etc. every season. I change them according to the inspiration of the year.”
For the Japanese chef, umami – the essence of Japanese gastronomy – is a crucial ingredient for enhancing his French cuisine. “For those who don't know umami, it is important to study and learn by looking at the taste. I personally prefer to use ingredients with a strong umami flavor. We also aim for a synergistic effect of umami depending on the combination. I believe that umami is the most important ingredient in cooking," he stresses.
"We always focus on umami."
Commitment to creativity and elevating guest experience
Asked how he keeps staying creative as a chef, Chef Kawasaki points to the necessity of nurturing his innate curiosity: “I will continue to have an inquisitive mind about [my cooking]. It’s about not being satisfied with the status quo and always striving to make something better."
When it comes to his team, he wants them to find their creativity organically rather than being forced to deliver. “What is more important is to cook and learn about the ingredients in front of you every day. As a result, I think creativity comes naturally," he explains.
Allowed to develop in their own way, this formidable culinary team helps Chef Kawasaki elevate the guest experience at Mezzaluna via his fine dining concoctions while bringing the Japanse omotenashi hospitality with him in a French restaurant setting.
“For me, hospitality means putting yourself in the customer's position, understanding what they want, and providing more than they expected. Take pride in your work, enjoy it from the bottom of your heart, and provide it to your customers,” he says.
"For me, hospitality means putting yourself in the customer's position."
Michelin-star restaurants in Bangkok like Mezzaluna use TableCheck as their reservation system. TableCheck helps high-volume establishments, restaurants, and Hotel F&B properties like lebua Hotels and Resorts in Thailand and Southeast Asia to deliver unforgettable dining experiences to guests.
About the Author
Tuesday Gutierrez is TableCheck's Senior Content Manager. She believes in the power of food and the dining experience to connect and build communities. At TableCheck, she explores the inspiring world of hospitality, restaurants, and the people behind them.
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