Chef Rin Sriprathum of Celadon: Giving traditional Thai cuisine a modern polish
Adherence to Thailand's customary palette of flavors gives this contemporary chef a definite edge
Celadon is a kind of ancient East Asian pottery glazed in jade green. Recently, there has been a growing movement in Thailand to revive the age-old art form using the methods and raw materials employed in the 14th-century Sukhothai period – meaning no synthetic or commercial dyes and clay are used in the production of modern Thai celadon. The stoneware is fashioned from the gifts of the jungle and the earth, with each piece made by hand.
This renewed interest and reverence for this greenware is the inspiration and driving force behind Celadon, the famed fine-dining restaurant in The Sukhothai Hotel in Bangkok. It has become one of the culinary jewels of the city: Celadon was voted the “Best Restaurant in Bangkok” by Travel and Leisure magazine and listed in The Plate MICHELIN Guide in 2018.
Of course, behind every iconic restaurant is a world-class culinary genius. And that is exactly what Celadon's Head Chef Rosarin “Rin” Sriprathum is.
Learning from inspiring grandmothers
Born and raised in Thailand, Chef Rin was influenced by her grandmothers, who were both accomplished in the kitchen.
“I got the inspiration to cook from my grandmothers – a Thai chef and a Thai pâtissier,” she says.
The opportunity for a girl to be inspired by two women food wizards in her family speaks to the richness and strength of Thailand's food culture. Her grandmothers' unique ways of preparing food and individual creative techniques allowed her to imagine and formulate her own style in the ingredient-dense world of Thai cuisine.
At age 20, she embarked on a career in the culinary arts, which eventually led her to running renowned establishments like The Regent Bangkok for 10 years. Her talent eventually took her to some of the most culinary-rich locations in the world, including Australia, Indonesia, Hong Kong and Japan to promote Thai food. She eventually moved to England to be the assistant head chef at the renowned Siam House. Upon returning home, she further showcased her skills in the Millennium Hilton Bangkok before joining Celadon.
“I'm proud of myself for doing my best in my job,” she adds. “The results speak for themselves.”
“I got the inspiration to cook from my grandmothers – a Thai chef and a Thai pâtissier."
The rise of female chefs in Thailand
Back in politically incorrect times, it was common to think that the woman's place is in the kitchen – which makes it ironic that the culinary world is dominated by male chefs. Like everything else in these ever-changing times, the status quo is being challenged, especially in Bangkok where female head chefs are growing in number.
In a past interview, Chef Rin attributed this to the strong impact of mothers on daughters. She said their mothers were strong, they worked hard and they listened and learned from their own maternal figures. This subtle but very profound influence made it possible for girls to dream of actually becoming chefs one day.
Traditional recipes, modern presentation
Chef Rin's strength is in keeping the authenticity of Thai cuisine. Many Thai restaurants are experimenting with fusion and other twists to their offerings, but Chef Rin is resistant to that. Her strict adherence to the preservation of Thai cuisine's unique characteristics, ingredients, and flavors sets her and Celadon apart and has made them favorites among local and foreign diners.
“We keep everything authentically Thai because it’s hard to find that in other places nowadays,” she says.
Serving traditional Thai dishes in all their colorful glory adds to the excitement and creates a more immersive dining experience. Appetizers such as the toasted dried shrimp with coconut, peanut, lime, ginger, betel leaf, palm sugar, and shrimp paste dipping sauce are elegantly and carefully laid on a bed of basil and pandan leaves. Balls of deep-fried prawn cake are on a wooden stick and beside them is the bright and tasty root vegetable pickle dip. One of the most attractive and undoubtedly mouth-watering offerings is the square slab of coral grouper fish lying in a spicy southern-style yellow curry sauce and toddy palm, while the bright orange deliciousness of the crab meat Thai omelet is definitely a crowd-pleaser.
Not to be outdone is the vegetarian fare consisting of steamed rice dumplings with shimeji mushroom filling and its famed spicy sauce; homemade deep-fried vegetable spring rolls; spicy green papaya, peanut, and long bean salad; and the spicy vegetable soup with lemongrass, lime juice and bird’s eye chili.
Traditionalism doesn't mean resistance to innovation, however.
“We use unique local ingredients from every part of Thailand to create our dishes,” Chef Rin says. “We use elements from secret recipes and continue searching for new local ingredients.”
Chef Rin also attributes her success and that of Celadon to teamwork. She's the type of leader who is open to suggestions from staff.
“Brainstorming is important and I accept my team's opinion. Everything has to relate to our concept when we create the new dishes.”
With her talent, international exposure, and unmistakable pride in her culinary heritage, Chef Rin will surely inspire more Thai girls to secure their place in the world's top kitchens.
“We keep everything authentically Thai because it’s hard to find that in other places nowadays."
Celadon is one of the premier Thai restaurants that use TableCheck as their reservation system. We help high-volume establishments, and Hotel F&B clients in Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asia to deliver unforgettable dining experiences to guests.
Celadon
Address: Sukhothai Hotel Bangkok, 13/3 S Sathon Rd, Khwaeng Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, Bangkok 10120, Thailand
Website: Celadon at The Sukhothai Bangkok
Reservations: TableCheck
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